Day 47 - Sponsored by Judy Pincus

While the hurricane weather has past, summer weather did not return and fall, with cooler temperatures, is in the air. After taking the bike and baggage four flights down the elevator at David's apartment, I pedaled south to Battery Park to pick up a rental car to get me out of Manhattan. Similarly as on the way in, bridges and tunnels across the Hudson River didn't allow for bicycle traffic on the way out. A leisurely ride through Rockefeller Park near the ferry terminals, and along the Esplanade with scenic views of Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty, marked the end of my New York City cycling experience.

Today's travel follow the Hudson River north, across the Washington Bridge, to Fort Orange, better known today as Albany, NY. Almost four hundred years ago, Dutch colonists controlled the Hudson Valley, and signs of this distant past were still present, most notably in Kingston, then called Wiltwyck. History here tells of the conflicts between the Dutch settlers and the Esopus Indians and the struggles and successes of the Peter Stuyvesant administration.

Day 46 - Sponsored by David Pincus




Rain on the tail end of hurricane winds was forecast to persist for the rest of the day. I left David's apartment shortly before noon, after a relaxing and delicious mid-morning bagel and lox breakfast with Leslie. First on the agenda was a ride down to Ground Zero, where thousands of people had gathered earlier in the morning for the eighth 9/11-memorial service. The enormous pit, where the World Trade Center towers once stood, was still largely visible, but construction for the Freedom tower and five skyscrapers, with in the center a memorial and museum are now well under way. From here, my cycling excursion went through the financial district, along the East River, to the United Nations building where we had kicked off the Blue Planet Run two years earlier. This time around, the weather was nasty, and the wind and waves coming off the river splashed and crashed on the otherwise pleasant pedestrian and bicycle path. My new rain jacket was doing its job, and kept at least my arms and upper body dry! Then it was on to Central Park, for some "soggy" picture moments at the Bethesda Fountain, in the heart of the park. For the return trip, I followed Broadway, via Time Square, and all the way back to the Lower East side.

I loved weaving in and out of traffic, surrounded by yellow cabbies, racing to beat the traffic lights on the next block. Urban cycling at it's best! It was almost theatrical and certainly amusing to see these hundreds of people armed with their umbrellas, en masse, crossing the busy intersections, battling gusts of winds, flaring up from time to time. Many umbrellas didn't survive these forces of nature, and incapacitated with their wings clipped, littered the sidewalks near and around trashcans. Totally drenched from the non-stop rain, yet enthralled with this almost despondent yet spirited experience, I got back to the apartment by 6:00 pm ready for a hot shower and a change of dry clothes. That night, looking out from the apartment's window, two shafts of bright lights pierced into the gray and cloudy sky. A tribute in light, originating from near the Trade Center Ground Zero site, in memory of all those who died during the September 11 tragedy.

Day 45 - Sponsored by Ken Van Gilder


Even though Pennsylvania and New York state have hundreds of miles of scenic byways, there was not a quiet biker friendly country road void off motorists, for the next 150-miles, to connect Oxford to New York City. I needed some expert advice, and found it at a bicycle shop in Downingtown, PA. Ken, part owner of the Downington bicycle shop, enthusiastically went to work for me, calling some of his contacts and "Googling" the information highway for maps, but in the end concluded that there wasn't an easy way to get there on a bicycle, in a one or two-day ride. Resigned with the idea of taking it day-by-day, I bought a rain jacket and a pair of cycling booties in preparation for the upcoming rain days, and received a generous sponsorship boost from the Downingtown Bicycle shop. It was a nice ride back home, through Amish farmlands, to Oxford, PA, where mushroom farming is steadily on the rise and being cultivated, mostly for culinary purposes.

With limited time, and a dreary weather forecast for the next several days, I was running out of options on how to get to the Big Apple, and across the Hudson, in a timely manner. Ultimately it was Leslie who solved my problem, by offering to drive me into New York City, as long as she would be back by 3:00 pm the next day to pick up Avi from kindergarten. By nightfall we packed the car, and around 10:00 o'clock turned the corner, towards the turnpike, the Holland tunnel and Manhattan, where we arrived a little after one in the morning, at cousin David's cozy apartment.

Day 44 - Sponsored by Leslie Wolman


Some of the towns along the Chesapeake Byway date back to the mid-seventeen hundreds, and boasts beautiful colonial and Victorian homes and historic government buildings. Between these historic towns, the Chesapeake Byway traverses through long stretches of farmland, producing endless fields of corn stalks and soybean crops. Many of the field-crops were marked with cardboard signs, indicating the type or variety of produce it is growing. Other businesses along the route, advertised fresh crabs baited from local waters on Maryland's eastern shores.

The flat and lowlands with idyllic maritime hamlets, settled alongside waterways for local trade, was somewhat reminiscent of Holland. A gusty Northerly wind was blowing in my face. If only this would be a tail wind I could really cover some grounds in a short amount of time, but instead I was pushing slowly forward into a head wind, mostly induced by a fleeing hurricane Fred. The route today went from Centreville, a town depicted in the novel Red Kayak by Priscilla Cummings, to Chestertown and Chesapeake City where I originally had planned to spend the night. As the weather deteriorated, and still being one day behind schedule, I felt the urge to travel beyond my final destination, and found a warm welcome some twenty miles further North, at the home of Leslie, Molly and Avi, wonderful and hospitable relatives, in Oxford, Pennsylvania.

Day 43 - Sponsored by Wendy Grinberg


Having never been to the city of Annapolis, home of the USA naval academy, I had no idea what to expect. All I knew was, that across the Chesapeake Bay, the Chesapeake Byway began, another scenic route void of major traffic, and I was looking forward and ready to explore the hinterlands of Maryland. You can only imagine my surprise when a gas-station attendant told me that the only bridge across the Bay, connecting Annapolis with East Maryland, did not allow foot or bicycle traffic. "You will have to go north via Baltimore," was his somewhat sarcastic remark. Abashed but undeterred, I decided that no matter what, I would find a way, and that going 150 miles out of my way just wasn't an option. With that thought in mind, I cycled into town and was pleasantly surprised by this historic and picturesque maritime town.

After having biked up and down and around the historic district, I made my way to the visitor center, to see if they had a solution to my problem. As I explained my situation to the two volunteers on duty, they responded with a, we-love-a-good-challenge attitude, and started looking for maps, yellow pages and other transportation information. It did not take long before they came to the same conclusion as the gas-station attendant. There simply was no way to get across the Chesapeake Bay on a bicycle. One of the volunteers, Ed Wood, who celebrated his 47th wedding anniversary that day, and was not supposed to be on duty, said: " I have an SUV and will take you across the bridge, if you can get all of that, pointing at the bike and trailer outside the window, in the back of the car." Having done that before, with less space than an empty SUV, I took the task at hand and shortly thereafter we turned the corner out of the parking garage, towards the William Preston Lane Memorial bridge, destination Stevensville, on highway eighteen.

Once on the other side, it was still a fairly long bike ride to the town of Centreville, where I checked in at a newly established bed and breakfast, on 104 Kidwell. I was only the second guest there, and the innkeeper hadn't officially opened the doors yet for the public. Although not fully prepared to have guests, Barbara left for the grocery store later that night, to buy all the food on her shopping list, in preparation for a wonderful and elaborate home-cooked breakfast the next morning.

Day 42 - Sponsored by Mariette Vanderzon


Today was Labor Day and the Washington and Old Dominion trail was fairly well traveled by rollers and strollers, and recreational- and more serious bikers. The weather threatened to rain but held out, and by the time we reached the Capital City, turned into a mellow somewhat sunny Monday morning. Rick and Mariette accompanied me on bike into town and guided me along the W&OD, across the Potomac River to the National Monument and Lincoln Memorial. We cycled around DC, passed the White House, the Capital and onto Central Station from where they sent me on my way to Annapolis.

Within less than an hour after we said our goodbyes, the sky opened up and forced me into my rain poncho from earlier days. The weather front was the result of hurricane Fred, a category three tropical depression, and had been predicted to stay around for the next several days, dropping the temperatures to below normal for the season.

The directions were fairly good for a while, but once crossed into Maryland, the street names and landmarks were no longer congruent with my instructions, making me go into circles. Most of the locals only added to the confusion, but at last I found someone barbecuing on the front porch, who invited me up for some tea and Dutch windmill cookies, and advised me to take highway 450 instead. With more rain coming my way, I decided to chance it. Labeled a snow route, this wide shouldered state highway, with the exception of bridge overpasses, was reasonably safe to cycle. By eight o'clock it was almost dark, and the road was wet and semi-busy with vacationers returning home from their Labor Day outing. I pushed the pedal to the metal and soon found a motel outside the city of Annapolis. A hot shower and a change of clothes was all it took, to forget about the rain and the less than ideal weather conditions during the later afternoon. Altogether it turned out to be a great day cycling the nations capital, with newly found friends.

Day 41 - Sponsored by Rick Studley


By six in the morning the alarm sounded and it was time to take care of business. Last night I realized that I had left my bike shorts in the men's room of the restaurant, and this early morning needed to get back there to rescue them, before the cleaning crew arrived. While the campground was still sound asleep, the world around it was right awake. Numerous deer, from buck, doe and fawn, were grazing near the roadside, and the sunrise was a spectacular slow-motion movie of a hazing red and orange rising planet. Today was the final day of my 650-mile ride atop the backbone of this great mountain region. The historical markers along the way to Front Royal retold stories of geological formation and civil war history. A multitude of wild flowers and butterflies completed the landscape and an glorious bright blue sky brought out their brilliant colors. Elevations mostly fluctuated between 2,000 to 4,000 feet, and as usually, prevailing headwinds were in the air, pushing my gluts to the max.

At 6:16 pm, I finished the Shenandoah Skyline. It was a tough day with long up hills, including the highest point of the Skyline. And there, in Front Royal stood my favorite fast-food restaurant, if there is such a thing, waiting for me to dish up on its all-you-can-eat salad bar buffet. As it turned out, there was no salad bar buffet here, so I left and came upon an Italian restaurant, Villa Giuseppe a few blocks down the road. After having strategically parked my bike where it could be seen from a window seat, I enjoyed a Peroni and the special of the day, followed by some scrumptious Tiramisu for dessert. Just when I was about ready to leave, Rick and Mariette walked in. They had seen my bike and trailer parked outside, and wondered about my whereabouts. All three of us being bike enthusiasts, gave us something in common and I moved over to their table, inquiring about directions to Washington DC. With nightfall on the way, they offered me a ride to near the W&OD, which evolved into an offer to spend the night at their home. I gladly accepted and we somehow managed to add my bike and gear to their already cycling gear packed Subaru.

Day 40 - Sponsored by Ed Heidicker


Today is the beginning of a two-day bike ride on the Shenandoah Skyline. It is more or less a continuation of the Blue Ridge Parkway starting up, where the former left off. Because of Labor Day weekend, traffic was busier than normal and at the park entrance, they informed me that all lodges and campgrounds were full! With no exits to escape off the Skyline to nearby towns, I had the rest of the day to figure out where to find refuge later that night. The plan was to make it halfway up the Skyline to Big Meadows, a paradise for big game watching, in hopes that they would be able to squeeze me in at the campground. If the last two days of the Blue Ridge Parkway is any indication of what is yet to come, I will be in for the ride of my life. Someone told me that you haven't seen bears until you get to the Skyline! My only reaction to that was to quote a now famous, but dumb remark: "Bring them on!"

The road surface on the Skyline was courser than I had been accustomed to on the Blue Ridge Parkway, and on one of the down hills, going into a hairpin turn, at thirty-five miles per hour, the pavement was loose with gravel, and caused my bike to shake uncontrollably, reverberating from the front to the back where the Bob trailer reacted by sweeping it's weight back and forth, pushing me into the opposite lane and almost out of the saddle. Somehow I remained upright and was able to slow down enough to return to the right lane. Close call is all I could think of, as my heart rate quickly thumbed up a few notches.

By five-thirty I made it to my destination. Deer were roaming the alpine meadow, followed by a flock of people chasing them down, armed with telescopic lenses, for a picture perfect moment. I settled in at the camp store to have dinner and a one-on-one, to figure out where to spent the night. Almost done with both, and not having come to any conclusion, Ed walked up with his, as he calls him, Regal Beagle Charlie. He sat down at the picnic table next door, and soon we were involved in "serious" conversation. As it was getting darker, Ed inquired where I was spending the night and trying to be humorous, I retorted: "Don't know, the campground is full, probably right here under the pick-nick table!" I gladly accepted his invitation to park my tent on his campsite, and before long was enjoying a front row seat around the fire that Ed had stoked up for the night. Charlie and I became best of friends and another perfect day came to an end.

Day 39 - Sponsored by Mary Ann Abramson


An elaborate breakfast of cereal, eggs, hash browns and toast, at the campground restaurant started off the day on the right foot. More head winds and hills were on the menu, and I figured I might as well bulk up for the ride, as my food-supply had dwindled down to power bars, shot blocks, a few instant oatmeal packs, tuna cups and some Ramen noodles. I could see the end of the Blue Ridge Parkway now, and it was surely a bittersweet. Of course I needed to move on, but at the same time this National Park had become part of me, because of all its wonderful and rich experiences, and I wasn't eager to let go.

Today's route would finish in Afton, a rural town home to June Curry, also known as the cookie lady, the patron saint of cycling enthusiasts, who for the last thirty years has opened her doors in support of thousands of transam riders. Unfortunately I had to pass her by, as I was told that she was not in very good health these days. Sorry to have missed you June and many thanks for all your genuine support and hospitality.

At the Parkway terminus, I met Tom and Barbie from Toronto, while I was setting up for a bike picture next to the Parkway entrance. Barbie called me from the back of their Harley, and asked if I wanted her to take my picture. Sure thing, that would be so great, me and the bike at the end of a long parkway journey! They congratulated me on my successful completion of the Blue Ridge Parkway, and I for one was glad I ran in to them for this celebratory Blue Planet moment. After the picture ceremony we talked about my Tour-de-Water mission. Barbie made a comment about Tom's mustache that he has had now for thirty years, and that he should shave it off as a fund-raiser, since there is a great smile behind there, that she has never seen! I added that the number thirty was very significant in the water world, as it only takes $30 to provide safe drinking water for life for one person. We left it at that, and ended up at the same roadside motel, where Tom offered me an ice-cold beer before we said our good byes! And that is the life of my vagabond existence each day, meeting all these wonderful people along the way, some just for a moment, and others that will become life long friends. Life is just fabulicious!

Day 38 - Sponsored by Charles Mayne


There are now only two days left on the Blue Ridge Parkway, but as it turned out, these final 120 miles had a lot of hill climbing in store. The climb began almost immediately at the start of the Jefferson National Forest with a long gradual uphill to Peaks of Otter. For a while, the Parkway runs parallel to the Appalachian Trail and intersects this famous hiking trail on several occasions. Arriving at Peaks of Otter, a helicopter rescue was under way, causing the road to be temporarily closed for a good forty-five minutes. At this point, I am halfway towards my destination and ready for a break anyway, and from the visitor center watched the ambulance to helicopter transfer in action for a while.

By 3:30 in the afternoon, the road was cleared and the next thirty-miles of the ride, went first up to the highest elevation on the Virginia Parkway and then down to the lowest point of the Blue Ridge. It was one of the toughest workouts uphill to 4,000 feet, followed by a thirteen mile thrilling downhill to 650 feet. When I got to the bottom near the James river, I was cold and my hands were cramped from pumping and squeezing the breaks, as gravity from the weight of the trailer was constantly trying to push me beyond my comfort zone. Upon arrival at the Otter Creek camp ground it was still light, and I spotted a nice camp site near the restroom facilities, to stow my trailer, out of sight from any wildlife. After having gathered enough firewood from fallen branches and having set up my tent, it was time to start a fire to warm-up and keep the insects at bay. With the help of a few sheets of paper ripped out of my camping guide, the little twigs soon caught fire, fueling the bigger branches and larger logs. The evening darkened and a few more vacationers on motorcycles rolled into camp. Labor day was around the corner and tomorrow this place will be filled for the final summer holiday of the year.

Day 37 - Sponsored by Ed and Anita LaBiosa


I was awake way before daybreak, and snoozed for a while longer before breaking up camp. By 6:45, under a vermilion red sunrise, similar to the sunset the night before, I began my ride North towards Roanoke. It was cool and brisk on the down hills, and soon my fingers were stone cold, and my face tight and wet from the morning dew. These early mornings at 3,500 feet made me realize that fall was in the air and that the higher temperatures experienced at the beginning of the trip, are day by day, slowly starting to fade away. By 11:00 am I took a break at the Smart View picnic area, overlooking an alpine meadow with grazing cattle and distant mountaintops. I wasn't alone for long. Adam a serious road cycling fanatic, as he called himself, stopped by for a chat. He told me that he was pretty hardcore when it comes to cycling, but that he had the utmost respect for us cross-country trekkers, carrying all that weight up and down these hills day in day out. While he admired my ability to do what I do, I was envious of his speed, strength and power to ride the way he did.

I told him that I was hearing some clicking sounds coming from my crankshaft, and attributed it to my chain being stretched, because of pulling all that weight. He recommended a bike shop in Roanoke and gave me directions to the place. Again it would take me out of the way and short of my daily miles, but if the chain broke in the middle of nowhere, I would have a bigger problem on my hands. As we talked some more, a car drove up and parallel parked next to us. After a little while, the visitors from next-door, Ed and Anita approached us and introduced themselves. When they learned of my dilemma, they spontaneously offered to help me out. The plan was for me to bike to Roanoke Mountain, some three cycling hours away, and settle in at the campground. Ed, a semi professional landscape photographer, and his lovely companion, were on their way to Mabry Mill to take some pictures there, and offered that on their way back home could come and pick me up, and take me into town to the bike shop.

Shortly before five o'clock Ed and Anita knocked on my tent-door, loaded the bike in the SUV, and drove for quite a while into town, to Cardinal Bicycle, where Robert, the bike mechanic, spent 45 minutes taken my bike apart and tuning it up. The problem was not what I thought it was, but the clicking sound was arrested, and now the bike felt in better shape than ever before. The evening was still young and Ed and Anita invited me to join them for dinner with their friends. We ended up in downtown Roanoke at  Table Fifty, and after a delicious main course and a local brew, they drove me back to the campground via The Roanoke Star, a famous landmark since the late forties. It was a beautiful evening and the view from above, under The Star and an almost full moon, made for another perfect memorable day!

Day 36 - Sponsored by Paul Jones


The morning came way too soon. I had laundered, showered and enjoyed a good night of rest in Winston, at Paul and Mary's home. After a hot breakfast, some delicious home baked apple pie, and a morning of blogging, it was time to get back on the Parkway. Mary had made me a care-package of Clif bars, two large size zip-lock bags full of mini cheese rounds, a generous portion of home made cake and some handpicked figs from the back yard. At 3:30 pm, Paul dropped me off at the Blue Ridge Parkway, at the exact same spot we had stopped cycling the night before.

My goal for the day was to ride fifty miles to Rocky Knob before dusk, and for a while it looked like an achievable objective, as the terrain was rolling along gently. With all the additional groceries and Mary's spare laptop borrowed for the rest of the trip, I had definitely reached my maximum poundage. The trailer was heavy and vehemently protested the load. It was harder to control, especially on the down hills and it slowed me down to a crawl on some of the steeper up hills. I could also now feel my knees burn more and more, under the heavy pedal pull and push.

By eight o'clock, after a glowing red sunset, it was dark and still a six-mile uphill away from my destination. I turned on both taillights, my headlamp and two flashers on my helmet and vest, and must have looked like a Christmas light parade. On approach, deer grazing on the side of the road, disappeared into the woods or darted across the road, propelling themselves forward with ease and grace. A beautiful spectacle to see them almost in synchronized flight disappear without a sound, side by side, into the abyss. By nine on the dot, I reached my destination and found a spot in an an almost empty campsite. The sign at the campground entrance stated that it was unlawful to feed all wildlife, and to put food items and cosmetics safely in the car with the windows and doors shut. Not having that luxury, I took the bob trailer and parked it safely inside the men's restroom. After setting up camp and having some munchies, without wifi, phone or email signal, and no one to talk to, what better thing is there to do than to get a good night of sleep.

Day 35 - Sponsored by Mary Chervenak


My plan for today was to ride seventy miles to the Virginia border, and with a little help from my friends it came to fruition! No miles lost, but none gained either on the catch-up game. The day started out with rain and a heavy fog, and seven miles into the ride with another detour, due to bridge construction. I had a solid breakfast in Boone and followed the bright orange detour signs out of town, back onto the Parkway. A dog chase with me being victorious was the only great challenge. Alpine meadows with cow and horse pastures painted a picturesque landscape.

I have been looking forward to today's ride because Mary and Paul, friends from the 2007 Blue Planet Run, were coming out to meet me on the Parkway. Mary, an accomplished cyclist and triathlete, had brought her bike and Paul his new camera. I almost missed our meeting point, but at the last moment noticed Mary napping on top of a pick-nick table as I was flying by, on a down hill, in a hurry to be on time for our get together. We rode for over three hours and dueled up and down the rolling hills. By 7:00 pm we packed it in and drove to Paul and Mary's home to spend the night. The ride home, packed to the rafters with bikes, buggy and baggage was a bit reminiscent of when we ran around the world. I found a comfortable spot in the back on the floor and reloaded with veggie raps, chocolate chip cookies and a carbonated key lime pie flavored soda. A hot shower, a cold beer, clean laundry and a real bed completed todays ride. Another great day, indeed!

Day 34 - Sponsored by Karen Perzyk


Another beautiful day on the Blue Ridge Parkway, cycling from Skyline Village to Boone! Twenty miles into the ride I crossed over the Linville River and stopped off at the Linville Falls visitor center, to enjoy a leisurely hike in the Pisgah National Forest. The falls were a little bit out of the way but definitely worth a visit. A playful interlude between a tranquil shallow river and a narrow wall of rocks and giant boulders, transformed this natural peace and quietness into raging waters. The backdrop of this outdoor drama was a forest with large hardwoods and pine trees, scores of rhododendrons, a forest floor carpeted with mushrooms and moss, and blueberries ripe for the picking. By the end of the day I ran into a roadblock, which put me on a crazy detour and further behind schedule. The end of the road came seven miles off the Parkway in Boone where I spent the night. Over the next few days I will have to catch up on some miles, but I am not in a hurry. It's so beautiful out here and that cannot be rushed.

People have been very generous and nice to me. Of course we talk about my water mission and I have handed out over 200 cards with my web address in the hope that it will result in many donations! Thank you all for wishing me God speed and a tailwind. So far 95% of the ride has been with a stern headwind. But it doesn't really matter, and some may even say that it builds character!

Day 33 - Sponsored by Henry van der Werken


Dave dropped me off on the Parkway at the Folk Art Center, where I had gotten off the night before. This beautiful center boasts a great selection of arts and crafts, and I spent a little time there before the long climb of the day. Perhaps a bit of procrastination, before battling these long hills up to Craggy Gardens, and onward to Crabtree Meadows, Mount Mitchell and three miles beyond Little Switzerland, near the museum of North Carolina Minerals, where I spent the night at the Skyline Village Inn. At the Inn I had a delicious salmon dinner and a Blue Moon with a slice of orange, out on the terrace, overlooking the Smokies. The Inn keeper Mike gave me legendary service and hosted a terrific breakfast, included in the price. The next morning his wife made me a goodies bag, to give me some carbs for the ride.

It is becoming somewhat funny to me, that advice from people is almost always the same: "Once you get to this point or that point, the road will smooth out." It never happens. Every part of this Blue Ridge real estate is hilly with slow ups and thrilling downs, and I for one, think that is all par for the course! I am mostly in the moment on the road, make my rest stops, meet nice people, and have my picture taken with them in front of my Bike-and-Bob, sometimes in exchange for some cookies. Oreos please! At night I try to find a place to blog, look for a signal for my iPhone, so I can update my Facebook group friends at Run, Ride, Rally for Water, and answer phone calls before going to sleep. That's the life of a cyclist vagabond, always wandering and wondering, and restless to get beyond the next bend to go yonder! Ah, life is good!

Day 32 - Sponsored by David Pruiett


Since it was still raining the previous night, and with very little to do, I tugged in early in anticipation of an early start in the morning. The rain was coming down hard for most of the night, but the tent held-up great without any leaks or wetspots. A cozy night in the rain sort of speak! I slept solid until 2:20 in the morning, when I was woken-up by some plopping and loud sniffing sounds. I now sat up straight in my sleeping bag, and listened attentively. Soon I realized that there was a bear romming around my tent within ten feet from me. My food was stowed safely in a metal container outside the tent, and there were no edibles on me, other than myself! Ha! After twenty minutes the bear turned away never to be heard from again. Ten minutes later I was again sound a sleep!

By noon the weather had dramatically improved and it was time to take my rain poncho back off. That evening I met Dave, after I got off the Parkway due to a threatening thunderstorm. Dave is the president of the local cycling club and when he saw me coming in town, trailer in tow, followed me to the parking lot, where I was about to get off for a bite to eat at a Chinese restaurant. We talked for awhile and decided to meet again later that night, for a wine tasting party at Divine Wine, a local wine store. We met again, and Dave brought me a snack-pack with cliff bars and electrolyte mixes, and some parts to fix my bike shoes, and then invited me to spent the night at his house. What a day! It doesn't get much better than that.

Day 31 - In honor of my parents


It seems only natural that today's ride is in appreciation of my parents, as today I will ride to the highest point of my entire trip. For all of my life they have always supported me, no matter how crazy the ideas. So today is both a highlight and a moment of thanks to them for almost always being there for me every step along the way.

After a mile of downhills, the ride changed it's attitude, and went straight up for a solid four hours, and at the end, crowned the highest point of the Parkway at 6,047 feet! This may not seem very high in comparison to Mount Rainier, but on a bike with 120 pounds of gear in tow, it is quite the work out! As you can see in the picture, rainclouds are forming and shortly thereafter it all came down, with gusty winds creating havoc between the gaps. Being caught and captured by the rain I cycled for more than three hours, and was soaked to the bone when I arrived at my destination for the day, at Mount Pisca, again short of my goal. After a hot shower and setting up camp, I felt human again, and to top it all off, enjoyed a nice charbroiled trout dinner at a nearby restaurant, the only one for miles.

Day 30 - Sponsored by Bill and Alice Harrill


My trip planner for the day had me going from Cherokee to Ashville. Although I was a day ahead of schedule and ten miles short of Cherokee, I soon found out that the distance and the long gradual climbs, would slow me way down, and made my planner unrealistic. On route, I read and learned much about the Cherokee Nation.

When the army began forced removal of Cherokee citizens from North Carolina on June 12, 1833 most Cherokees submitted peacefully to arrest and deportation, but hundreds refused capture and remained here after the Trail of Tears. Some families with white members held dual citizenship in North Carolina and the Cherokee Nation, and were excempt from removal. Other Cherokees obtained emigration waivers from Preston Starrett, a federal enrolling agent, who was married to a Cherokee citizen. The struggles of those days are now very well documented and dramatized in a local play called Unto these Hills.

After lunch and a short visit to the town of Cherokee, I finally entered the Blue Ridge Parkway. People warned me that the first eight miles were straight up, and they weren't kidding. I had my water and electrolyte drinks and hydrated regularly to replace my body fluids. When I realized that I wasn't going to make it to Asheville, I resourced my maps for an alternate stop for the night, and found a visitor center at Waterrock Knob.

Once at the viewpoint and visitor center, I was almost out of water and figured that this life essential resource would surely be available here to replenish. No such luck! Then I met Alice and Bill who have a summer home in the mountains and offered to go to the nearest town, 15 miles away, and buy me a gallon of water. Forty-five minutes later, they were back with water, ice cream, cookies, a Dr. Pepper, my favorite drink on this trip, and a four-pack of V8. I was amazed and felt blessed by their acquaintance. The night at 5,700 feet was cold but showcased a beautiful sunset and sunrise. I slept in the open under a star studded sky, and kept a watchful eye out for bears since this is bear country, and I was the visitor in their territory. No bear sightings that night. The following morning two campers came by in a VW-bus and offered to cook me some breakfast. Ah, the people part of this trip has been so heartwarming. Life is truly beautiful!

Day 29 - Sponsored by David Christoff


Today's ride travels from Ducktown, Tennessee into North Carolina to Bryson City. A very scenic yet strenuous route, covering 75-miles of forested realestate. This South Western part of North Carolina is known for its raging four to five class rivers, and was the site of the Centennial Olympics for the various kayaking venues. The rivers here are running wild, and rafting and kayaking is a popular past-time. Flyfishermen are standing knee deep in the river, casting their lure in hopes of catching their limit of rainbow trout. The weather is gorgeous and the scenery a treat to the eyes. I love it here and follow the Nantahala river for most of the day, stop and go to catch those "kodak" moments. There is lots of climbing between the gaps, but so far the leggs are pumping iron! No concern there. I am more concerned with traffic on these one lane roads with no shoulder. Especially on the uphills, because my speed is much slower and makes control over the bike harder too. The down hills are a blast, but with the trailer weight pushing me , I can't go much beyond thirty five miles per hour, so I am riding off-and-on gripping the breaks, looking to avoid potholes and bumbs in the road as much as possible. Tomorrow I will be on the Parkway. No more trucks, dogs and what have you! Yeah ...!

Day 28 - Sponsored by Mark Steele


Today was back to work after a fun weekend sightseeing in Tennessee. One day when climbing a pretty good size hill, a motorists yelled across the road from his car: "Looks like hard work!" And that's what it is, but at the same time a great deal of fun with an important mission. So back to hard work is really not so bad! Chaim and I went our separate ways in Cleveland, TN after an AAA stop, where I picked up some maps and a Trip Ticket to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Cycling the main roads here is a lot more hazardous I was told, and I found that to be very true. This single lane scenic highway I was on, with very little shoulder, going East to Asheville had a lot of commercial traffic, which in general was very polite and patient sharing the road. But one irate trucker cut me off after blasting his horn, and then threw a half empty soda can out the passenger window, fortunately missing me by a long shot.

The road passed by a dam supplying white energy for Chattanooga, and several lakes, and for a long time paralleled a river, interspersed with boulders, causing white water rapids. The sun was bright but overshadowed by large trees on both sides of the road and the later afternoon saw some relieve of traffic, which made the ride much more enjoyable. As I was looking for a place to pitch a tent, and none was in sight, and threatening rainclouds were rolling towards my direction, I found refuge in a road side motel in Ducktown, TN. The minute I closed the door behind me, the sky opened up and rainfall flooded the pavement.

Day 27 - Sponsored by Leslie Wolman


We took full advantage of the elaborate breakfast at the hotel, before traveling by car to Chattanooga via Lynchburg, Tennessee where we visited the Jack Daniels distillery. A very interesting tour awaited us there in a small rural town, approximately twenty miles off the main highway. Cristal clear spring-water was flowing from an on site cave and a life-size bronze statue of Jack Daniels stood in front of it. No sampling of this world famous grain abstract today though, because the factory was in a dry county where no liquor is served on Sundays. Imagine that, you can make it but not drink it! The tour guide explained that all workers receive one bottle of Jack Daniels every first Friday of the month, which makes for a Good Friday and a bad Saturday!

After touring the center of town, and having some hot and spicy Jambalaya for lunch, we continued on to Chattanooga, where we arrived with enough time to spare for an evening cycling excursion. This city boasts a great Aquarium, the Chattanooga Choo Choo train station, a walking bridge across the Tennessee river and a beautiful park with the majestic Delta Queen river boat moored on the river nearby, all within biking distance.

Day 26 - Sponsored by Doug Hausken


It so happened that we were in Nashville during the annual Dragon Boat and River Festival, organized by the Cumberland River Compact an environmental non-profit organization that believes in having both a strong economy and a healthy environment. By 9:00 am the dragon boats roared and riverfront park was crowded with rowing teams, spectators, vendors and sponsors. Blazing paddles, Huffin and Puffin and River Pi-Rats were some of the teams competing in this all day event. In the end it was the Nashville Outlaws who walked away with the trophy.

That night we met up with the Fradkin's at the Blue Bird Cafe, a small club and restaurant featuring original country and acoustical music, and one of the premier songwriters club in the country. Nightly songwriters shows, feature some of the best and upcoming musicians, and this evening was no exception. A delightful experience with wonderful lyrics and music, and great company!

Day 25 - Sponsored by Carol and Gary Fradkin


Today is Friday and the final day on the Natchez Trace Parkway. A day of riding, with at the end of the road a shower, a bed and a change of non-cycling clothes! The morning hours presented some rainfall, just after I had picked up camp, and by ten in the morning it was once again warm and sunny. The road offered some challenging hills and the terrain was more rugged with beautiful vistas, waterfalls and bluff overlooks. Towards the end, it crossed the Tennessee Valley Divide the highest point, causing rivers to flow in opposite directions, depending on what side of the divide the river runs. Close to the end of the Parkway, I crossed over the double-arched bridge, that spans Birdsong Hollow, an engineering masterpiece awarded the prestigious Presidential Award for Design Excellence. After 444 miles I reached the northern terminus and the end of the Natchez Trace Parkway. It was a bit anti-climatic as I really enjoyed riding this beautiful part of the country. My friends Carol and Gary offered to make their home a stop-over point to shower, do laundry and a wonderful dinner. I gladly accepted their invitation and warm hospitality.

Day 24 - Sponsored by Leah Schmerl


The hills are alive and continually rise and fall between 300 and 800 feet. The elevation is not really the problem, but the distance to it, makes for a challenging ride. I had a good night sleep, even though the tumultuous sounds of nocturnal creatures never ceased throughout the night. From the hooter sounds of barn owls, to the high pitch chirping audibles of the crickets, and a whole lot of other shrieks, thrills and whistles. Then there were slithery sound bites, and the noises of tree branches breaking off and crashing on the forest floor. An organic symphony without regards for rhythm. At morning break the birds and wild turkeys announced the new day. It is almost light again when I crawl out of my little abode and by 6:45 in the morning, I am back in the saddle.

Mississippi was an amazingly good time, Alabama was short and sweet, and now I am within 100 miles from Nashville, Tennessee. Rain and thunderstorms were in the forecast for the day, and barely inside the Collinwood visitor center the skies opened up and let it all out. Lucky me! To kill some time, I headed over to the library where all the computers were down, struck by a power outage, but shortly thereafter restored. That evening the ride terminated at the Meriwether Lewis State Park. A national landmark and burial place dedicated to this famous explorer, well known for the Lewis and Clark exploration and other political contributions. His tragic and mysterious dead at age 35 occurred here at this location, while he was traveling the Natchez Trace Parkway on a government assignment.

That night I set up camp nearby, with not a soul around. It took a little longer to start a fire since most of the wood on the ground was soaking wet from today's rainfall. But at long last it caught on, and the fire and smoke kept the mosquitoes at bay and made for an enjoyable evening!