Day 28 - Sponsored by Mark Steele

Today was back to work after a fun weekend sightseeing in Tennessee. One day when climbing a pretty good size hill, a motorists yelled across the road from his car: "Looks like hard work!" And that's what it is, but at the same time a great deal of fun with an important mission. So back to hard work is really not so bad! Chaim and I went our separate ways in Cleveland, TN after an AAA stop, where I picked up some maps and a Trip Ticket to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Cycling the main roads here is a lot more hazardous I was told, and I found that to be very true. This single lane scenic highway I was on, with very little shoulder, going East to Asheville had a lot of commercial traffic, which in general was very polite and patient sharing the road. But one irate trucker cut me off after blasting his horn, and then threw a half empty soda can out the passenger window, fortunately missing me by a long shot.

The road passed by a dam supplying white energy for Chattanooga, and several lakes, and for a long time paralleled a river, interspersed with boulders, causing white water rapids. The sun was bright but overshadowed by large trees on both sides of the road and the later afternoon saw some relieve of traffic, which made the ride much more enjoyable. As I was looking for a place to pitch a tent, and none was in sight, and threatening rainclouds were rolling towards my direction, I found refuge in a road side motel in Ducktown, TN. The minute I closed the door behind me, the sky opened up and rainfall flooded the pavement.

Day 27 - Sponsored by Leslie Wolman

We took full advantage of the elaborate breakfast at the hotel, before traveling by car to Chattanooga via Lynchburg, Tennessee where we visited the Jack Daniels distillery. A very interesting tour awaited us there in a small rural town, approximately twenty miles off the main highway. Cristal clear spring-water was flowing from an on site cave and a life-size bronze statue of Jack Daniels stood in front of it. No sampling of this world famous grain abstract today though, because the factory was in a dry county where no liquor is served on Sundays. Imagine that, you can make it but not drink it! The tour guide explained that all workers receive one bottle of Jack Daniels every first Friday of the month, which makes for a Good Friday and a bad Saturday!

After touring the center of town, and having some hot and spicy Jambalaya for lunch, we continued on to Chattanooga, where we arrived with enough time to spare for an evening cycling excursion. This city boasts a great Aquarium, the Chattanooga Choo Choo train station, a walking bridge across the Tennessee river and a beautiful park with the majestic Delta Queen river boat moored on the river nearby, all within biking distance.

Day 26 - Sponsored by Doug Hausken

It so happened that we were in Nashville during the annual Dragon Boat and River Festival, organized by the Cumberland River Compact an environmental non-profit organization that believes in having both a strong economy and a healthy environment. By 9:00 am the dragon boats roared and riverfront park was crowded with rowing teams, spectators, vendors and sponsors. Blazing paddles, Huffin and Puffin and River Pi-Rats were some of the teams competing in this all day event. In the end it was the Nashville Outlaws who walked away with the trophy.

That night we met up with the Fradkin's at the Blue Bird Cafe, a small club and restaurant featuring original country and acoustical music, and one of the premier songwriters club in the country. Nightly songwriters shows, feature some of the best and upcoming musicians, and this evening was no exception. A delightful experience with wonderful lyrics and music, and great company!

Day 25 - Sponsored by Carol and Gary Fradkin

Today is Friday and the final day on the Natchez Trace Parkway. A day of riding, with at the end of the road a shower, a bed and a change of non-cycling clothes! The morning hours presented some rainfall, just after I had picked up camp, and by ten in the morning it was once again warm and sunny. The road offered some challenging hills and the terrain was more rugged with beautiful vistas, waterfalls and bluff overlooks. Towards the end, it crossed the Tennessee Valley Divide the highest point, causing rivers to flow in opposite directions, depending on what side of the divide the river runs. Close to the end of the Parkway, I crossed over the double-arched bridge, that spans Birdsong Hollow, an engineering masterpiece awarded the prestigious Presidential Award for Design Excellence. After 444 miles I reached the northern terminus and the end of the Natchez Trace Parkway. It was a bit anti-climatic as I really enjoyed riding this beautiful part of the country. My friends Carol and Gary offered to make their home a stop-over point to shower, do laundry and a wonderful dinner. I gladly accepted their invitation and warm hospitality.

Day 24 - Sponsored by Leah Schmerl

The hills are alive and continually rise and fall between 300 and 800 feet. The elevation is not really the problem, but the distance to it, makes for a challenging ride. I had a good night sleep, even though the tumultuous sounds of nocturnal creatures never ceased throughout the night. From the hooter sounds of barn owls, to the high pitch chirping audibles of the crickets, and a whole lot of other shrieks, thrills and whistles. Then there were slithery sound bites, and the noises of tree branches breaking off and crashing on the forest floor. An organic symphony without regards for rhythm. At morning break the birds and wild turkeys announced the new day. It is almost light again when I crawl out of my little abode and by 6:45 in the morning, I am back in the saddle.

Mississippi was an amazingly good time, Alabama was short and sweet, and now I am within 100 miles from Nashville, Tennessee. Rain and thunderstorms were in the forecast for the day, and barely inside the Collinwood visitor center the skies opened up and let it all out. Lucky me! To kill some time, I headed over to the library where all the computers were down, struck by a power outage, but shortly thereafter restored. That evening the ride terminated at the Meriwether Lewis State Park. A national landmark and burial place dedicated to this famous explorer, well known for the Lewis and Clark exploration and other political contributions. His tragic and mysterious dead at age 35 occurred here at this location, while he was traveling the Natchez Trace Parkway on a government assignment.

That night I set up camp nearby, with not a soul around. It took a little longer to start a fire since most of the wood on the ground was soaking wet from today's rainfall. But at long last it caught on, and the fire and smoke kept the mosquitoes at bay and made for an enjoyable evening!

Day 23 - Sponsored by Chaim Van Prooyen

Today's route from Tupelo to the Tennessee river, exposed at times part of the original (old) Natchez Trace, and showed off impressive Indian mounds, with the Pharr mounds being one of the largest and most important in the region. Eight large dome-shaped burial mounds are scattered here over a ninety acres area. These mounds were build and used in 200 A.C.E. by a tribe of nomadic Indian hunters and gatherers, who returned at times to this site, to bury the dead with their possessions. Further up on the Parkway was the Bear Creek Mound, a village site occupied as early as 8,000 B.C.E. by hunters, who stayed only long enough to prepare their kill. These people shaped a large mound and built a crude temple on its summit, to house their sacred images.

After having done the entire Boeing fleet on my odometer, from the 707 to the dream liner, I cross the Mississippi Alabama border and log my first 1,000 miles. By late afternoon I reach the Tennessee river, and since there is no place to stay for another thirty miles up the road, I decide to hang it up for the day, and explore the area. Whenever I tell people here that I camp in the woods, their response almost always is the same: copperheads, rattlesnakes and cottonmouth. They tell me that they are everywhere, and I listen to their personal experiences of snake encounters. I have yet to encounter one myself, but when out for a walk in the forest, watch carefully where I step, especially when picking up logs and branches for firewood.

By nightfall there is not much going on. In places like this there usually is no phone signal, or electricity so the only thing left to do is, to crawl inside the tent, the size of the length and width of my body, open up the vents, and sweat it out till day break.

Day 22 - Sponsored by Ms Ellen Balk

Almost a day ahead of schedule, I left camp at the crack of dawn. Today's mileage would again be around 75-plus miles to Tupelo, Mississippi. A park services advisory discouraged cycling the Parkway near Tupelo between the hours of 5:00 pm to 7:00 pm, due to heavy motorized traffic. Again the early morning hours were cool, and helped put some effortless miles on the board. Not that I was in a hurry, but it would allow for more sightseeing stops, and meeting and visiting with people along the way.

As a cyclist, I have a love hate relationship with our four legged man's best friend, the dog. I love them when they let me pass on my bike without a fuss, but hate to have to outrun them when they chase after me. While they were not at all a problem on the West Coast, the minute I started cycling the South, they were abundantly on the loose. Most of the time their bark has been bigger then their bite, but one never knows, and don't really want to find out. Even on the Natchez Trace Parkway, I encountered several dogs either abandoned or lost, but always kept to a safe distance. So far they have not caused me any harm or major hardship, but one morning when taking a wrong turn, and being chased by a seemingly vicious dog, it took a bit of courage on my part, to turn around and face the assailant for a second time, to get back on track. I always imagine the dog owner watching me from inside the house, enjoying his "harmless" guard dog giving me grieve. Simple pleasures I suppose!

After a brief stop at the visitor center I made it to Tupelo, Mississippi, birthplace of Elvis Presley, and found an econo-motel to spend the night. With the upcoming three days being more remote, I picked up some groceries and tasty snacks to satisfy my sweet tooth, and thus additional weight to schlep along.

Day 21 - Sponsored by Dds Linda Darian

Today's ride went from Rattliff Ferry campground to Jeff Busby. At about the halfway mark, I stopped at Kosciusko, birth place of Oprah Winfrey, for lunch and a library stop. There I met Brendan and Bronzeman, two local students, curious about my comings and goings, and after our talk, poised in doing a related school project on water. The library stop took up a lot of time, and by four o'clock I hit the road, to make it another thirty miles! With all the sightseeing stops, and gradual elevations, I had to step up the pedal power to make camp before dusk! The ride was very scenic with a lot of historical markers, notably French camp, and beautiful horse pastures and wild turkeys roaming on the side of the road. How could I not stop to enjoy these moments?

Jeff Busby was void of people, and a dark forested camp ground. With my headlight strapped to my head, I sat up camp and enjoyed a cold meal inside the restroom facilities, to avoid all the bugs. My legs were already marred enough by spider-bites, mosquitoes, flee-bites and fire-ants, and this shelter away from all those critters was a welcome relief. Inside the tent, under a star studded sky, I listened to the sounds of nature, covering the entire spectrum of audible frequencies, with every sound bite amplified. This varied and fascinating play, or perhaps courtships of bird-calls and -responses by these feathered creatures, was something I had never heard before. What was behind all these different voice boxes I will never know, but won't soon forget!

Day 20 - Sponsored by Wendy Wert

Today's route went from Rocky Springs to the Ratliff Ferry camp ground. I never know exactly where I end up when taking off in the morning, as it depends a little on how my day progresses. Key items always are: Where can I find water, food, a camp ground or a place to sleep? So far all has gone well, and I am about thirty miles ahead of schedule. The Parkway meanders and undulates with medium size hills. A stubborn headwind and always hot summer sun, keeps the ride to an average of 12.5 miles per hour. For the first time on the trip I had some rainfall, which actually felt pretty good while coming down, but then afterward the humidity kicked up a notch.

Sunday traffic was polite and patient, and even around Jackson, where traffic was a lot busier with weekend travelers, it was not a problem. Groups of motor cyclist were going up and down the NTP and often would wave to me, as if I was one of them! How cool is that! The route went by the shores of the Ross Barnett Reservoir, the Pearl river and the Cypress swamp, all beautiful water stops. And did I mention the beautiful lillie pads all along the shoreline? Monet would have loved it here!

By seven o'clock I made it to my final destination and checked in at the campground store. It was there that I met Mark, proud owner of five "puppies", who took an interest in my story. After we talked choices of beers for a while, he commented that if interested he would cook me up some grits, as I looked awfully skinny to him. He then pulled out his wallet and a twenty dollar bill, as a donation for the cause! Do I say more. The people of Mississippi rock, time after time!

Day 19 - Sponsored by Temple Israel, WB, MI

At long last I made it to the Natchez Trace Parkway. My usual day begins with a 6:00 am wake-up call, followed by picking- and packing-up camp, a solid breakfast, and filling-up all four water bottles, two bottles with water and two with an electrolyte mix. Also the "juice" in my iPhone has to be set for at least 80% to make it through the day, to take pictures, communicate my HeyWay application, and pilot me on and off the route. For today all of that is in order, where this is not always the case. Cycling the Parkway early in the morning is ideal, with little traffic, a cool breeze and some wildlife still visible on the side of the road. By noon the sun is beating down the open road and burns the right side of my body all to crisp! The Trace is the story of Natchez, Chickasaw, and Choctaw Indians following traditional ways of life, of French and Spanish people venturing into a world new to them, and of people building a new nation. All along the Parkway are historical markers and trails, retelling of the history along the route. The old Trace was used by travelers, merchants, messengers and adventurers, in a way I fit the bill for all four, but most importantly as a messenger for the Blue Planet Foundation.

Day 18 - Sponsored by Robert Palmer

Today is an off-day to catch up on things in Natchez, MS. This historic town sits on top of a bluff overlooking the Mississippi river. Antebellum mansions, mostly restored, are still abundant here and all around the region. After a routine visit to the library to update my blog, and some great "service with a smile" assistance from the librarian Marianne, I started to make my way over to the Parkway. En route, I stopped off at the local bike shop Trippe's Automotive, where I met Chris the owner, and Mike, both avid cyclists. When I was about to leave, Mike invited me for a beer and burger over at his friend's house, and offered to take me to the Parkway later on that night. Dinner at Tommy's house turned out to be a great time with great food and newly made friends, and I for one was grateful to have been invited to join the party.

Day 17 - Sponsored by Sylvia Saperstein

Today was the first cycling day of the rest of my journey. From here on, it will be the Natchez Trace Parkway to Nashville, than the Blue Ridge Parkway to Washington DC, the Chesapeake Byway to New York, and the Lakes and Locks Passage to Montreal! You can sponsor a byway or part of a day-trip, but please do what you can to support this important cause. Every dollar matters and will be matched by a anonymous donor, doubling your donation.

Louisiana, land of hog farms, catfish and Cajun shrimp. By nine, I was ready to take on the road, so I thought. Packed my BOB trailer to the hilt, and hit the pavement. With most of the weight in the trailer now, it was a very heavy pull and I needed to repack, to more evenly distribute the weight between the two panniers and the trailer. Rookie me! Today was extremely hot, meaning in the upper nineties, and much more humid than I was accustomed to. Add to that a hefty head wind, with little shade and only a few towns to stop and cool off, and you have a long enduring day. There was a lot of roadkill of frogs, turtles, snakes and armadillos, almost always right smack in the middle of the bicycle shoulder, adjacent to the highway. How does that happen? I also noticed more crosses on the side of the road, from motorists being killed in traffic accidents, and lots of empty beer cans and bottles, perhaps the reason for these tragic deaths. Today's ride made for one of the toughest cycling days so far. After seven hours in the saddle, and lots of water and electrolyte drinks, I finally rolled into the historic town of Natchez, nestled on the shores of the Mississippi river.

Day 16 - Sponsored by Andrea Church-Kreisa

After driving and napping through the night, I arrived in Alexandria, Louisiana, my final driving destination. One day ahead of schedule, I dropped off my Prius at the Hertz rental car agency in town. The hybrid Prius, on average used a little over fifty miles to the gallon, saving me more than $100 in gasoline, and more importantly, substantially reduced carbon emissions. We have come a long way from the covered wagon to this fuel efficient mode of transportation. Thank you Hertz for accommodating me, and serving my needs, it has been a great and comfortable ride in more than one ways!

With five flat tires under my belt, it was time to switch to the armor-all Armadillo tires and I found one at Red River Cyclery! We talked tires and Blue Planet Run and back at the econo-motel I prepped my bike and gear for the next 2,000 miles of trekking. The Natchez Trace Parkway is still eighty miles away from Alexandria, a one way commute for tomorrow.

Day 15 - Sponsored by Ellen Hanson

Memphis Tennessee is home to music legends, Elvis Presley, B.B. King and Johny Cash. Recording studios galore, and a long list of sights to see, but only a few hours to explore. After all this is not a vacation, but a "tour de water" to raise funds for people without excess to safe drinking water! Graceland the homestead of Elvis Presley, king of rock and roll, is buzzing with thousands of visitors, paying homage to this famous rock star. This museum like theme park boasts his home, his car collections and airplanes, platinum recording albums, Elvis costumes, his guitars and many other memorabilia. Then it was on to downtown and the civil rights museum, next to the Loraine hotel, where Dr. Martin Luther King was slained and now memorialized, a somber and sober place of remembrance. And last but not least a visit to Beale street, where life music reverberates from every restaurant and cafe. Memphis, a swinging and historic city with much to do, but for now that was all I had time for.

Day 14 - Sponsored by Malka and Ross Wolman

Today was a long driving day from Siloam Springs, Arkansas to Memphis Tennessee. First on the list was my long overdue laundry at the Soap Opera laundromat in town. You got to love the name! Meandering roads and rolling hills carved today's route through the Arkansas Ozarks. Alpine like pastures with grazing cattle and lush green deciduous forests, contrast the dry and dusty deserts and prairies of the previous days. I made a stop in Hardy, AR and talked to the local chainsaw artist there. Then it was on to Hoxie, AR and arrived near the outskirts of Memphis by 12:30 am, to finally catch a nap on the side of a quite road, after battling a hort of blood thirsty pesty mosquitos. Such is life on the country road!

Day 13 - Sponsored by Cheryl Waldbaum

Ooooklahoma! A great musical and a beautiful state. After reading-up about Oklahoma City, I was looking forward visiting this town, and was not disapointed at all. It was Sunday morning, and a nice quiet time to tour this midsize metropolitan on bike. The city boasts lots of sculptures, a great botanical garden, a concert hall, and an art museum with a very large Chihuly glass sculpture, hanging from the ceiling in the entry way. Then there is Bricktown, and a memorial museum commemorating the 1995 federal building bombing, killing 168 people. An outdoor symbolic memorial of quiet reflection. After spending several hours here, I checked out the library, but as has been so often the case on this trip, there were no open computer slots. So I decided not to wait, packed up and continued on to Tulsa, OK and Siloam Springs, AR.

Day 12 - Sponsored by Priscilla Yonemura

Today's ride is back on Route 66 from Tucumcari, NM via Amarillo, TX to Red Rock Canyon state park, OK. I stopped at the Cadillac Ranch to admire the graffiti art of a row of eight Cadillacs half way burried in a stretch of bare land, a little set back on the side of Highway 40 also known as Route 66. Spray cans were standing by for visitors to add there own signature. Near the Texas stateline, in the town of Shamrock stood another Route 66 historic landmark, the Conoco gas station and drop-in cafe. That night I camped out in the canyon, which was shaped some 260 million years ago by wind water and natural forces. Today was another scorcher of a day reaching temperatures around the 100'F, and even in the canyon it was not much cooler!

Day 11 - Sponsored by Bahram Mirzaagha

New Mexico is well known for hot air ballooning, and because I was there, and always wanted go up in a helium balloon, I left at the crack of dawn for our launch site near the Rio Grande. It was a perfectly clear and beautiful day, to glide 2,000 feet up in the air, and watch the scenery go by all around us and down below. Back on the ground, I hiked along hundreds of petroglyphs in Rinconade Canyon. These images were carved in basaltic lava by ancient Pueblo indians centuries ago. After the two hour hike, I enjoyed a stroll in Old Town and concluded with some fine wine tasting at Casa Rondena on the outskirts of town.

Day 10 - Sponsored by Melvin Pincus

On the way to Albuquerque the weather was pleasantly cooler with an occasional rainshower. During my stopover at El Malpais the cloud bursts crescendoed into a rainstorm, which was a spectacular sight being viewed through the panoramic windows from the inside of the observatory. The vast landscape between Flagstaff and Albuquerque featured lava flows, window rocks, mesas and mountain ranges. After crossing the New Mexico stateline, I followed the mother road through Gallup with a visit to the Richardson Trading Post, and thereafter continued to Grant, Los Lunas and across the Rio Grande into Albuquerque.

Day 9 - Sponsored by Willem Van Prooijen

Today I met up with Greg, a longtime friend, and spend the day out and about strolling around delightful Flagstaff. We visited a bicycle store to inquire about a BOB-trailer and came across AZ Bikes in downtown. Bryce Wright the owner, was very helpful and accomodating, and pointed us to a local dot com company, that happens to sell exactly what I wanted. Two hours later my "BOB" was assembled and ready to take on the road. Now a proud bike trailer owner, I will be able to take my pack off my back and carry more water and food for the longer day trips. After a long overdue haircut we stopped at the Print Raven to see if they could make me a banner for the trailer. Without hesitation Ed and Betty the shop owners, and Leona took an immediate interest in the Blue Planet cause and went to work. Within an hour they wipped out a great looking vinyl banner. Not only did they make it on a moments notice, they gave it to me for free. Flagstaff you made my day!

Day 8 - Sponsored by Hertz Rental Car

Today was a short bike ride to the Hertz Rental car agency in San Bernardino, to pick up my rental car for the next ten days. Hertz Rental Car had generously, at no additional charge, upgraded me to a Prius to make my ride more economical and ecological. Initially I had wanted to ride the entire route 66, but without a support vehicle, to carry enough water in the extreme heat during the summer season, it was not recommended nor safe to ride this portion of the route. As it turned out temperatures ranged from 104'F to 111'F, which is average for this time of year. On my way to Flagstaff, I stopped for Lunch at Jimmy's broiler in Victorville and made some delightful new Blue planet fans. After lunch the Amboy crater was on the menu for a short hike in the heat, and a quick stop for some Route 66 nostalgia, at the newly renovated Roy's Cafe a little bit further down the road.

Day 7 - Sponsored by Lisa Nash

Today I had a little bit of a later start than usual, but being at the Viceroy hotel I wanted to take full advantage of the wonderful luxury and amenities. Before going on today's ride, I biked up and down the Santa Monica pier, and from there made my way to the west-to-east starting point of Route 66. Sunset boulevard, Beverly hills, Hollywood, Rodeo drive, Dodger stadium and China town were all part of the route. Temperatures soared to 99' and the heat reflection from the asphalt road made for a hot ride. A tail wind pushing me right along under an almost full moon, finished off the day and it was almost nine o'clock when I checked into a roadside motel in Realto. When I told Neil, the attendant there, what I was biking for, he immediately responded with a 50% room rate discount and handed me two bottles of water. A welcome surprise. The first leg of the trip had come to an end and six hundred miles are now behind me. The next segment will be from Natchez, MS to Nashville, TN. In the meanwhile I will be driving for the next ten days to get there.

Day 6 - Sponsored by The Viceroy Hotel

Because yesterday was another century ride, today's distance would only be 75 miles. The cool seabreeze and the auroma of seaweeds in the tidal zone were refreshing. An endless string of RV's were parked on the side of the road, and drones of black wet-suited surfers, were in the water, waiting for the big surf! The rolling hills and the tailwinds continued all the way into Santa Monica. I arrived by 3:00 in the afternoon, early enough to enjoy a stroll along the beach. Five hundred miles are behind me with roughly 2,000 miles still ahead, and I am having a blast! California may be in a financial slum, it's scenery, beaches and vistas are rich and a feast to the eyes. The Viceroy hotel, across from the Santa Monica pier, treated me to a free stay, a wonderful reception, and some fine dinning. After having roughed it for the last several days it was a wonderful retreat! Tomorrow will be another day!

Day 5 - Sponsored by Dominique B. Brown

By today all the lost miles were caught up and beyond. I had planned to stop at Santa Barbara but decided to continue on to the Carpenteria hiker-biker campground, another fifteen miles further down the coast. While the early part of the route from Lompoc to the coast was filled with killer uphills and a 7% grade downhill, once back on the coastal route it was a tailwind pushing me to a confortable 24-miles per hour pace. Going through town in Santa Barbara, it was crowded with tourists, and the traffic lights at every intersection, made for an annoying ride, having to go stop-and-go, and in-and-out of the clipless pedals. At the hiker-biker campsite several of the other cyclists, trekking the same route, were setting up camp and after having settled in, we went into town for some icecream and an exotic beer. This would be the last time we stayed in the same place as for most of them, the trip was coming to an end, for me it was just the beginning.

Day 4 - Sponsored by Tony & Kathryn Roon

Today's route went from Kirk Creek to Ocean Dunes. After leaving camp at the crack of dawn my first objective was to find a breakfast place. Thirty miles down the road I did. The morning rides are cool, and the coast is covered under a heavy layer of fog. Soon my rainjacket is soaking wet and my glasses are covered with a fine mist and have to come off! At the breakfast place I talked Blue Planet Run and Ride with the locals and other guests, and the hearty breakfast and friendly conversations warmed me up for the rest of the morning. Back in the saddle the miles are clicking away towards San Luis Obispo. More inland the weather turned hot, and in the middle of an uphill, at the heat of the day my first "flat" reared it's ugly head. Fortunately it was the front tire, so I did not have to take all my gear off the bike. Eleven miles later another flat, this time the rear tire! After the repair it was time to put the pedal to the metal, because the sun would soon set. I got the last spot on another hiker biker campground, the price was right,"free," but overcrowded, noisy and close to the waste diposal site! Another hundred plus miles was behind me, and despite the noise, I slept like a log!